Clinical Evidence — Dérvo Créma
Tested in a laboratory, not in a marketing meeting.
Créma was sent to GBA Polska, an independent analytical laboratory in Warsaw,
for instrumental efficacy testing, dermatological patch testing and microbiological analysis.
Every figure on this page comes from one of the four signed reports below. You can read all of them.
LaboratoryGBA Polska Sp. z o.o.
Cosmetics Research Centre, Warsaw
AccreditationPCA AB 1095, ilac-MRA
for the microbiological scope
Study periodAugust to October 2024
Product testedCréma by Dérvo
Samples 9746/08/24, 5240/08/24
After four weeks of twice daily use
24%
More hydrated
Mean corneometric hydration rose from 49.51 to 61.50 arbitrary units across the group.
Improved in 10 of 10 subjects
18%
Firmer
Mean skin deformation fell from 0.348 mm to 0.285 mm. A lower value indicates firmer skin.
Improved in 10 of 10 subjects
17%
More elastic
Mean elasticity rose from 0.583 to 0.684. A higher value indicates more elastic skin.
Improved in 9 of 10 subjects
The measurements
Before and after, as recorded.
T₀ was measured on cleansed skin before the first
application. T₁ was measured on the same individually marked areas of the face after four weeks
of use. Both readings were taken in the same air conditioned room at 20 to 25°C and 40 to 60%
relative humidity.
Instrumental test results, group means, n = 10
| Parameter | Instrument | T₀ |
T₁ | Change |
Improved |
| Skin hydration | Corneometer CM825 |
49.51 m.u. | 61.50 m.u. |
+24% | 10 of 10 |
| Skin firmness | Cutometer dual MPA580 |
0.348 mm | 0.285 mm |
18% firmer | 10 of 10 |
| Skin elasticity | Cutometer dual MPA580 |
0.583 | 0.684 |
+17% | 9 of 10 |
Measurement uncertainty for all three parameters was 3%. Under the laboratory's own
rule a claim is confirmed only where improvement is seen in the majority of subjects, at least 6 of 10,
and only where the change exceeds that uncertainty. All three parameters cleared both conditions.
Instruments supplied by Courage & Khazaka.
Skin compatibility
Twenty volunteers. Forty eight hours under occlusion. No reactions.
Créma was applied under occlusive chambers to the back of 20 volunteers
aged 25 to 59 and left in place for 48 hours. Skin was assessed against the International Contact
Dermatitis Research Group scale 15 minutes after the patches were removed, and again at 72 hours.
No positive contact allergy or irritant reaction was observed in any
subject at either reading. The laboratory concluded that the product meets the requirements
of the Skin Compatibility Test and may be assessed as non irritant. The report is signed by
M.D. Marta Taube.
The laboratory notes that this opinion does not extend to individuals who are
allergic to any single component of the formula.
The source documents
Attachment F/9746/08/EN
Instrumental efficacy study
The four week study behind the hydration, firmness and elasticity figures, including the
per subject measurements and the group charts.
- Subjects
- 10, aged 36 to 71, dry, combination and normal skin
- Protocol
- Twice daily to face and neck for 4 weeks
- Measured
- Corneometer CM825, Cutometer dual MPA580
- Dates
- 22.08.2024 to 07.10.2024
Attachment F/5240/08
Dermatological patch test
The occlusive patch test assessing irritation and sensitisation, with the reaction grade recorded
for every volunteer at 48 and 72 hours.
- Subjects
- 20, aged 25 to 59
- Protocol
- 48 hour occlusive patch, IQ Ultimate chambers
- Scale
- ICDRG, read at 48 h and 72 h
- Result
- No reactions. Assessed as non irritant.
Report K/0/08/2024/73/M/1/EN
Microbiological purity
Accredited analysis for the four pathogens named in EU cosmetic regulation, plus total aerobic
mesophilic count including yeasts and moulds.
- Scope
- Accredited, PCA AB 1095
- Pathogens
- C. albicans, P. aeruginosa, E. coli, S. aureus, all absent in 1 g
- Total count
- Below 1.0 x 10¹ cfu/g against a limit of 2.0 x 10³
- Dates
- 05.08.2024 to 10.08.2024
Report K/0/08/2024/134/F/1/EN
Instrumental test report
The laboratory's cover report for the instrumental work, naming the analysed parameters,
the test methods and the sample chain.
- Parameters
- Hydration, elasticity, firmness
- Methods
- PB-40/LK and PB-41/LK, ed. 2
- Sample
- 9746/08/24, received by courier, condition correct
- Issued
- 07.10.2024, qualified electronic signature
How the study was run
Method
- SelectionVolunteers were screened by questionnaire covering health, medication and lifestyle, and gave written informed consent.
- ControlsParticipants agreed to use no other product with comparable properties, and not to change their other face and neck products, for the duration.
- ConditionsAll readings taken in an air conditioned room at 20 to 25°C and 40 to 60% relative humidity, on cleansed skin with no make up.
- SitesThe same individually marked areas of the face were measured at T₀ and T₁.
- ThresholdA claim is confirmed only where the majority improve, at least 6 of 10, and the change exceeds measurement uncertainty.
What it was measured against
Standards
- EC 1223/2009European Parliament and Council Regulation on cosmetic products.
- EC 655/2013Common criteria for claims made in relation to cosmetic products.
- Cosmetics EuropeProduct Test Guidelines for the Assessment of Human Skin Compatibility, 1997, and Guidelines for the Evaluation of the Efficacy of Cosmetic Products, 2008.
- Declaration of Helsinki1964, with subsequent amendments, governing the selection of study subjects.
- SCCS/1647/22Notes of Guidance for the Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients and their Safety Evaluation, 12th revision.
The rulebook it was built to
Europe and the United States do not hold skincare to the same bar.
Créma is formulated, manufactured and tested inside the European
framework. That is not a marketing preference. It is a different legal standard, and it changes what
a product has to prove before anyone is allowed to sell it.
Cosmetic regulation compared, position as of 2026
| Requirement |
European UnionRegulation EC 1223/2009 |
United StatesFD&C Act, as amended by MoCRA |
| Substances prohibited outright |
More than 1,700 listed in Annex II, with roughly 370 further substances restricted by concentration or use in Annex III. |
11 prohibited or restricted categories at federal level. |
| Safety assessment before sale |
Required. A Cosmetic Product Safety Report must exist before the product reaches the market. |
Not required. There is no pre-market approval or safety review for cosmetics. |
| Who signs that assessment |
A qualified safety assessor, named and accountable, plus a Responsible Person established in the EU. |
No named assessor. Companies keep records of adequate substantiation evaluated by qualified experts. |
| Notification before market |
Required. Every product is notified to the CPNP portal before it can be sold. |
Facility registration and product listing are required, since December 2023. |
| Manufacturing standard |
Good Manufacturing Practice in force, to ISO 22716. |
Good Manufacturing Practice regulations are not yet finalised. |
| Claims must be evidenced |
Required. EC 655/2013 sets common criteria every claim has to satisfy. |
Claims must not be false or misleading. There is no equivalent common criteria framework. |
Both sides of this table moved recently. The Modernization
of Cosmetics Regulation Act, in force since 2023, gave the FDA registration, listing, safety
substantiation, adverse event reporting and recall powers it did not previously have, and finalised
manufacturing rules are expected. American oversight is materially stronger than it was. On the
measures above, the European framework still sets the higher bar.
Where Créma sits
We chose the stricter rulebook, then paid for the testing to prove it.
The botanicals, the formulation laboratory and the manufacturing are all in
Greece, so Créma is made inside that European framework rather than merely sold into it. Meeting
the rulebook is the baseline. It is not evidence.
The evidence is the four reports on this page. They were commissioned from an
independent laboratory and scoped explicitly to those European rules. The instrumental study and the
patch test both name EC 1223/2009 and the Cosmetics Europe efficacy and skin
compatibility guidelines in their terms of reference. The efficacy claims were assessed against
EC 655/2013, the common criteria that governs what a cosmetic brand is permitted to
say. The microbiological analysis was run against the limits set in the same regulation, under an
accredited scope.
That is the whole argument. A stricter standard, an independent
laboratory, and the signed reports published here so you can check the work rather than take our
word for it.
Read this too
What these studies do and do not show.
The efficacy study ran on 10 subjects over four weeks. That is a small group and a
short window, which is normal for instrumental cosmetic testing and is the basis on which the claims
on this page are made. It is not a pharmaceutical trial, there was no placebo arm, and the results
describe measured changes in skin properties rather than a medical outcome.
Elasticity improved in 9 of the 10 subjects rather than all 10. We have published the per subject
figures in the linked report rather than only the group average, so you can see that for yourself.
The patch test establishes that the formula did not irritate or sensitise the skin of 20 volunteers.
It cannot predict how a person allergic to a specific ingredient will react. The full INCI list is
printed on the carton and in both linked attachments.
The formula these numbers describe.
Créma, with Sideritis syriaca, Greek thyme honey
and four molecular weights of hyaluronic acid.
Shop the Créma