Clinical Evidence — Dérvo Créma

Tested in a laboratory, not in a marketing meeting.

Créma was sent to GBA Polska, an independent analytical laboratory in Warsaw, for instrumental efficacy testing, dermatological patch testing and microbiological analysis. Every figure on this page comes from one of the four signed reports below. You can read all of them.

LaboratoryGBA Polska Sp. z o.o.
Cosmetics Research Centre, Warsaw
AccreditationPCA AB 1095, ilac-MRA
for the microbiological scope
Study periodAugust to October 2024
Product testedCréma by Dérvo
Samples 9746/08/24, 5240/08/24

After four weeks of twice daily use

24%

More hydrated

Mean corneometric hydration rose from 49.51 to 61.50 arbitrary units across the group.

Improved in 10 of 10 subjects

18%

Firmer

Mean skin deformation fell from 0.348 mm to 0.285 mm. A lower value indicates firmer skin.

Improved in 10 of 10 subjects

17%

More elastic

Mean elasticity rose from 0.583 to 0.684. A higher value indicates more elastic skin.

Improved in 9 of 10 subjects

The measurements

Before and after, as recorded.

T₀ was measured on cleansed skin before the first application. T₁ was measured on the same individually marked areas of the face after four weeks of use. Both readings were taken in the same air conditioned room at 20 to 25°C and 40 to 60% relative humidity.

Instrumental test results, group means, n = 10
ParameterInstrumentT₀ T₁Change Improved
Skin hydrationCorneometer CM825 49.51 m.u.61.50 m.u. +24%10 of 10
Skin firmnessCutometer dual MPA580 0.348 mm0.285 mm 18% firmer10 of 10
Skin elasticityCutometer dual MPA580 0.5830.684 +17%9 of 10

Measurement uncertainty for all three parameters was 3%. Under the laboratory's own rule a claim is confirmed only where improvement is seen in the majority of subjects, at least 6 of 10, and only where the change exceeds that uncertainty. All three parameters cleared both conditions. Instruments supplied by Courage & Khazaka.

Skin compatibility

Twenty volunteers. Forty eight hours under occlusion. No reactions.

Créma was applied under occlusive chambers to the back of 20 volunteers aged 25 to 59 and left in place for 48 hours. Skin was assessed against the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group scale 15 minutes after the patches were removed, and again at 72 hours.

No positive contact allergy or irritant reaction was observed in any subject at either reading. The laboratory concluded that the product meets the requirements of the Skin Compatibility Test and may be assessed as non irritant. The report is signed by M.D. Marta Taube.

The laboratory notes that this opinion does not extend to individuals who are allergic to any single component of the formula.

The source documents

Attachment F/9746/08/EN

Instrumental efficacy study

The four week study behind the hydration, firmness and elasticity figures, including the per subject measurements and the group charts.

Subjects
10, aged 36 to 71, dry, combination and normal skin
Protocol
Twice daily to face and neck for 4 weeks
Measured
Corneometer CM825, Cutometer dual MPA580
Dates
22.08.2024 to 07.10.2024
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Attachment F/5240/08

Dermatological patch test

The occlusive patch test assessing irritation and sensitisation, with the reaction grade recorded for every volunteer at 48 and 72 hours.

Subjects
20, aged 25 to 59
Protocol
48 hour occlusive patch, IQ Ultimate chambers
Scale
ICDRG, read at 48 h and 72 h
Result
No reactions. Assessed as non irritant.
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Report K/0/08/2024/73/M/1/EN

Microbiological purity

Accredited analysis for the four pathogens named in EU cosmetic regulation, plus total aerobic mesophilic count including yeasts and moulds.

Scope
Accredited, PCA AB 1095
Pathogens
C. albicans, P. aeruginosa, E. coli, S. aureus, all absent in 1 g
Total count
Below 1.0 x 10¹ cfu/g against a limit of 2.0 x 10³
Dates
05.08.2024 to 10.08.2024
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Report K/0/08/2024/134/F/1/EN

Instrumental test report

The laboratory's cover report for the instrumental work, naming the analysed parameters, the test methods and the sample chain.

Parameters
Hydration, elasticity, firmness
Methods
PB-40/LK and PB-41/LK, ed. 2
Sample
9746/08/24, received by courier, condition correct
Issued
07.10.2024, qualified electronic signature
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How the study was run

Method

  • SelectionVolunteers were screened by questionnaire covering health, medication and lifestyle, and gave written informed consent.
  • ControlsParticipants agreed to use no other product with comparable properties, and not to change their other face and neck products, for the duration.
  • ConditionsAll readings taken in an air conditioned room at 20 to 25°C and 40 to 60% relative humidity, on cleansed skin with no make up.
  • SitesThe same individually marked areas of the face were measured at T₀ and T₁.
  • ThresholdA claim is confirmed only where the majority improve, at least 6 of 10, and the change exceeds measurement uncertainty.

What it was measured against

Standards

  • EC 1223/2009European Parliament and Council Regulation on cosmetic products.
  • EC 655/2013Common criteria for claims made in relation to cosmetic products.
  • Cosmetics EuropeProduct Test Guidelines for the Assessment of Human Skin Compatibility, 1997, and Guidelines for the Evaluation of the Efficacy of Cosmetic Products, 2008.
  • Declaration of Helsinki1964, with subsequent amendments, governing the selection of study subjects.
  • SCCS/1647/22Notes of Guidance for the Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients and their Safety Evaluation, 12th revision.

The rulebook it was built to

Europe and the United States do not hold skincare to the same bar.

Créma is formulated, manufactured and tested inside the European framework. That is not a marketing preference. It is a different legal standard, and it changes what a product has to prove before anyone is allowed to sell it.

Cosmetic regulation compared, position as of 2026
Requirement European UnionRegulation EC 1223/2009 United StatesFD&C Act, as amended by MoCRA
Substances prohibited outright More than 1,700 listed in Annex II, with roughly 370 further substances restricted by concentration or use in Annex III. 11 prohibited or restricted categories at federal level.
Safety assessment before sale Required. A Cosmetic Product Safety Report must exist before the product reaches the market. Not required. There is no pre-market approval or safety review for cosmetics.
Who signs that assessment A qualified safety assessor, named and accountable, plus a Responsible Person established in the EU. No named assessor. Companies keep records of adequate substantiation evaluated by qualified experts.
Notification before market Required. Every product is notified to the CPNP portal before it can be sold. Facility registration and product listing are required, since December 2023.
Manufacturing standard Good Manufacturing Practice in force, to ISO 22716. Good Manufacturing Practice regulations are not yet finalised.
Claims must be evidenced Required. EC 655/2013 sets common criteria every claim has to satisfy. Claims must not be false or misleading. There is no equivalent common criteria framework.

Both sides of this table moved recently. The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act, in force since 2023, gave the FDA registration, listing, safety substantiation, adverse event reporting and recall powers it did not previously have, and finalised manufacturing rules are expected. American oversight is materially stronger than it was. On the measures above, the European framework still sets the higher bar.

Where Créma sits

We chose the stricter rulebook, then paid for the testing to prove it.

The botanicals, the formulation laboratory and the manufacturing are all in Greece, so Créma is made inside that European framework rather than merely sold into it. Meeting the rulebook is the baseline. It is not evidence.

The evidence is the four reports on this page. They were commissioned from an independent laboratory and scoped explicitly to those European rules. The instrumental study and the patch test both name EC 1223/2009 and the Cosmetics Europe efficacy and skin compatibility guidelines in their terms of reference. The efficacy claims were assessed against EC 655/2013, the common criteria that governs what a cosmetic brand is permitted to say. The microbiological analysis was run against the limits set in the same regulation, under an accredited scope.

That is the whole argument. A stricter standard, an independent laboratory, and the signed reports published here so you can check the work rather than take our word for it.

Read this too

What these studies do and do not show.

The efficacy study ran on 10 subjects over four weeks. That is a small group and a short window, which is normal for instrumental cosmetic testing and is the basis on which the claims on this page are made. It is not a pharmaceutical trial, there was no placebo arm, and the results describe measured changes in skin properties rather than a medical outcome.

Elasticity improved in 9 of the 10 subjects rather than all 10. We have published the per subject figures in the linked report rather than only the group average, so you can see that for yourself.

The patch test establishes that the formula did not irritate or sensitise the skin of 20 volunteers. It cannot predict how a person allergic to a specific ingredient will react. The full INCI list is printed on the carton and in both linked attachments.

The formula these numbers describe.

Créma, with Sideritis syriaca, Greek thyme honey and four molecular weights of hyaluronic acid.

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